Frequently Asked Questions

HomeGuide's slab cost guide puts a 20' x 20' slab at about $2,400 to $4,800 installed, and its patio guide lists $1,600 to $4,800 for a plain 20' x 20' patio. Stained or stamped finishes push a patio that size to $3,200 to $12,000. These are national ranges; tear-out, thickness, base work and access change the total, and your written estimate is the price.

Residential concrete is almost always quoted per square foot or per job rather than by the hour, since material, base prep and finishing are bundled. For standard driveway work, HomeGuide's driveway guide breaks it down as about $3 to $7 per square foot in labor plus about $3 to $8 in materials. A per-job figure is the easier number to compare between bids.

We have not found a reliable Arizona-only figure. HomeGuide cites the NRMCA's national average of about $108 per cubic yard for ready-mix and says homeowners typically pay $119 to $147 per yard delivered and poured, with extra charges for short loads under 10 yards. That covers the concrete only; forming, base, reinforcement and finishing are separate.

It is an informal term, usually meaning a cheap hard surface made without a full concrete pour, such as compacted decomposed granite, compacted gravel, or soil mixed with cement. These work for paths and low-use areas, but they do not carry vehicles or shed water like a reinforced slab. If you need parking or a patio that lasts, real concrete is the better buy.

Yes, if the schedule respects the heat. Trucks are booked for first light, the subgrade gets wetted so it will not draw moisture from the fresh concrete, finishing moves fast, and curing compound or wet curing goes on immediately. Hot, windy afternoons are what produce weak, cracked tops, so we stay out of them.

That depends on the project. Anything reaching the curb, the public sidewalk or a retention area raises different questions than a backyard pad. We ask the Town of Gilbert about your specific job, and in an HOA community the association will usually want to approve the plan too.

According to HomeGuide's driveway guide, walking on new concrete is generally fine after 24 to 48 hours. Cars should stay off for a minimum of 7 days, and heavy vehicles are best kept off until the full cure at roughly 28 to 30 days. Your estimate lists the specific dates for your pour.

For everyday cars and SUVs, a 4-inch slab on compacted gravel is the norm. If you park a heavy pickup, RV or loaded trailer, we recommend a thicker slab in that area. HomeGuide notes that a 6-inch driveway is recommended for heavy vehicles.

Usually, yes. If the existing slab is in decent shape, we pour the new section alongside it and tie the two together or separate them with a joint. If the old concrete is badly cracked or sunken, it can make more sense to replace it at the same time.

Possibly. Work near the sidewalk or street can fall under the Town of Gilbert, and many neighborhoods have HOA rules about driveway size and materials. We find out what applies to your address before we schedule the pour.

HomeGuide estimates 30 to 40 years with proper maintenance. A good base, the right thickness, well-placed joints and occasional sealing do most of the work.

Foot traffic is usually fine after a day or two. Cars should wait at least 7 days, and heavy vehicles should stay off until the concrete reaches full strength at around 28 days.

HomeGuide lists about $1,600 to $4,800 for a plain 20' x 20' concrete patio and $3,200 to $12,000 for stained or stamped. Excavation, access and finish choice move the price within those ranges.

Yes. We match the height of the existing slab, tie in or separate the new pour depending on its condition, and line up joints so the result looks like one patio.

Shade does the most. A lighter color or a textured finish also helps compared with dark, smooth concrete. Around pools, a cool-deck coating is another option.

Often. Sprinkler and drip lines near the patio edge may need to be capped or rerouted so they do not run under the slab or spray it. We note this on the estimate.

Sealed concrete can be slick when wet, especially with a smooth stamp. Texture-heavy patterns and a grit additive in the sealer help, and we recommend both around pools and entries.

Color does fade over time in strong sun. Lighter earth tones hide it better, and resealing every 2 to 3 years, as HomeGuide recommends, protects the color.

Not with a traditional stamp, since it has to be done while the concrete is fresh. A stamped overlay on a sound existing slab is an alternative; see our Concrete Repair page for resurfacing.

HomeGuide gives 7 to 10 days for stamped concrete to cure enough for use. Sealer goes on once the slab is ready, and we will tell you when furniture can go back.

A light-colored, textured cool-deck coating makes the biggest difference on an existing deck. Shade and avoiding dark stains help too.

Common causes are settling of the backfill around the pool, water getting under the slab at the coping joint or from irrigation, and missing or poorly placed control joints. Finding the cause first keeps the repair from failing.

If the cracks are small and the slab is stable, yes, after the cracks are repaired. Wide cracks, heaving or sunken areas need repair or replacement first, or the new surface will crack along the same lines.

HomeGuide lists $3 to $6 per square foot for basic resurfacing and $6 to $12 for decorative, with a 500-square-foot deck at about $1,500 to $6,000.

HomeGuide puts a 20' x 20' slab at about $2,400 to $4,800 installed. Thickness, base work, access and removal of old concrete can push it higher.

For RVs and heavy trailers we recommend thicker concrete than a standard patio, often 6 inches with rebar, over a compacted base. The right answer depends on the vehicle weight and soil.

A simple pad may not, but slabs for structures, and work that affects drainage or the street, can. We check with the Town of Gilbert for your project.

Yes. We may use a pump or wheelbarrows, or temporarily remove the gate. The method is planned during the estimate and included in the price.

If most of the driveway is sound and level, repair is usually the better value. If it has large cracks, crumbling, many sunken panels, or would need an overlay thicker than 2 inches, replacement makes more sense.

HomeGuide lists mudjacking at $4 to $9 per square foot and foam at $8 to $25. Foam is lighter and cures fast; mudjacking costs less. The right choice depends on the soil, the size of the void and your budget.

Usually a little. Fillers do not match aged concrete exactly. Resurfacing or sealing afterward evens out the look.

Usually water under the slab, from downspouts, irrigation or poor drainage, or soil that was not compacted when it was poured. Leveling lasts longer when the water source is fixed at the same time.

Yes, if cracks are small and the slab is stable. Cracks are repaired first. Wide or moving cracks need structural repair or replacement, or they will come back through the new surface.